The questions salons, kitchens and workshops actually ask

As a rule almost any blade: shears (hairdressing, thinning, grooming, tailor’s), clipper blades, chef’s and butcher’s knives, and other blades including axes, lawnmower blades and garden tools. Special tools and machines by arrangement. If unsure, describe it on +386 51 659 600 · [email protected].

Yes. When servicing scissors I always take them apart, clean them and work the blades. I pay particular attention to keeping the correct cutting-edge geometry and to precisely refinishing and polishing the ride line. Afterwards I reassemble the scissors, set the right blade tension and test the cut in practice.

Yes. On thinning scissors with fine notches on the individual teeth I restore the sharpness with extremely fine abrasives, to keep their original shape and notches. On models without these extra notches, such as some chunker scissors, the usual sharpening process can be used, depending on the construction.

Yes, but send the complete set: cutter and comb are sharpened and matched as a pair. A set that bites or pulls is often only sitting badly, not blunt. Grooming salons find it works best to send sets in cycles.

As a rule I do not sharpen serrated knives. They need a different process from knives with a smooth edge, so sharpening bread knives has to be arranged in advance.

Disposable razors, and tools where sharpening is not possible or worthwhile, for example because of a special geometry, a complex construction or damage. I do not sharpen damaged axes that cannot be used safely, and as a rule not serrated knives. If you are not sure, describe the tool to me or send a photo.

Yes. Most of the work is for salons, kitchens and butcher’s shops, but individuals with quality knives are welcome too. The process and price are the same; the invoice can be made out to a company or a private person.

You drop the tools off at Ferrarska ulica 14 in Koper by arrangement, post them from Slovenia, Croatia and Italy, or arrange another way with us.

No. There is no collection, delivery or on-site sharpening. What comes into the workshop is sharpened there, because a controlled angle, cooling and inspection under magnification can only be guaranteed there.

Wipe the blades dry, sheath each piece (stiff card over the edge or a rigid guard), never as a bundle. Send shears assembled and closed, clipper sets complete, all in a rigid box with filling. Padded envelopes are not suitable. Full instructions on the How it works page.

To Igor Komadina s.p., Ferrarska ulica 14, 6000 Koper. Enclose a note with your company name, contact, a list of the contents and what you want done.

Roughly 1–3 working days from arrival, plus transit each way. It depends on the condition of the tools; if it will take longer, you are told before the work.

Send tools in two alternating batches: half in use, half in the workshop. The condition note you get back tells you which piece needs attention next.

Loss or damage in transit is the carrier’s responsibility, not the workshop’s, so use a tracked and insured service. Tools go back tracked; return postage is the customer’s.

Koper is about 20 km from Trieste, so dropping off is open to anyone who can reach Ferrarska ulica 14. We also take tools from abroad, arranged individually via +386 51 659 600 · [email protected].

Sharpening prices are generally set in advance according to the type of tool and how demanding the work is. From a description and photos I can give you an indicative estimate.

Only if inspection reveals unforeseen damage or the need for extra work. In that case I let you know about any change in price before starting the extra work.

I give you an indicative price in advance, from a description and photos. When the tools arrive I check their condition; if unforeseen damage or the need for more demanding work comes to light, I let you know about any change in price before doing the extra work.

Yes. The invoice is issued by Igor Komadina s.p. (registration 7367031000, tax 71734848) and made out to your company.

The workshop is not VAT-registered; the invoice carries the note: VAT is not charged pursuant to Article 94(1) of the Slovenian VAT Act (ZDDV-1). The price is final, and VAT-registered buyers have no input VAT to deduct.

The method and terms are agreed when the order is confirmed. The invoice matches the agreed price; there are no extra items unless I told you about a change in price before doing extra work.

There is no single interval; wear is set by the work, not the calendar. The signs are more reliable: shears fold hair, a knife skates off tomato skin, cuts need more force. That is the moment; waiting only means more metal comes off next time.

Every sharpening removes some material, so a tool has a finite number of sharpenings, that is physics. No more is taken than the edge demands. Running a tool into the ground and rescuing it with heavy removal is worse than sharpening in good time.

The cause is not always just the sharpness of the edge. Problems can also come from incorrect tension, damaged blade geometry or the ride surfaces not bearing on each other properly. I inspect the scissors and assess whether the problem can be fixed and what work it needs.

Because the edge is rolled, not worn. A steel pushes it back into line but creates no sharpness; a tired or damaged edge rolls again after a few cuts. Truing is maintenance between sharpenings, not a substitute.

No. A steel only realigns the edge; once the bevel is worn or chipped there is nothing to realign. A kitchen does best with both: truing day to day, sharpening when truing no longer does the job.

That the steel went past the temperature at which it loses hardness. Such a blade looks normal but no longer holds an edge. No later sharpening repairs it, which is why work runs coarse to fine and with cooling.

Before sharpening I check the condition of the tool and judge whether the work is still worthwhile; if the damage cannot be properly corrected, I let you know. If scissors cannot be properly restored despite the work, I do not charge for the sharpening.

Wipe blades dry and store them apart, not loose in a drawer. True kitchen knives with a steel and cut on wood or plastic, not ceramic or glass. Use shears only for their job and do not leave them open.